A big part of fixing anything is understanding how it works. How a pile of parts interrelates and functions is critical. Without even a guessing understanding you are all alone in the universe. This is how I started out with fixing my vise. I had a so-so guessing understanding of it. I knew I could fix this but I had a few struggles at first and I have now put them behind me. The key for me was the light bulb coming on finally about how the button on this damn thing worked.
The key to fixing my vise problem was understanding how the QR (quick release nut) worked. The bars and threaded shaft weren't contributors to the problem. I kind of guessed/knew how the QR nut functioned but not that 'button' on the top of the QR nut. I did not know what it's purpose in life was. Well I think I finally figured out how the all the parts interrelate and how this thing is supposed to work.
I also see now how the size of the nuts equates to the size of the vise. These Quick Release nuts are exactly the same as to how they function their size notwithstanding. They work on the same principles. The bigger nuts are needed for bigger vises, it's that simple.
Both nuts are partially threaded on the interior. On the nut on the left you can see threads on the left hand side of the inside but there are no threads on the inside of the right side . Roughly half of the inside is threaded. That is the key as to how this works. When the handle is turned to the right - to tighten - the threaded shaft is engaged in the partially threaded portion of the nut. The turning action of the thread also shifts the nut from one side to the other. The mass and weight of the nut plays here too with flipping the nut R/L depending upon whether you are tightening or loosening.
With the threads on the shaft fully engaged in the partial threads of the QR nut the vise jaws tighten. This is the reason why you can't go completely nutso tightening this vise because it will slip.
When you need to use the Quick Release function this action works in the reverse. By turning the screw to the left you shift the QR nut to the opposite side and the nut drops the unthreaded portion on the screw as you turn the handle. The screw has no threads to engage and that allows you move the jaws in/out. With my small vise I can usually get the QR engaged with one turn. My bigger vise on the workbench so far is requiring two turns.
So what is the button for? What is it's role in the QR nut saga? I had another QR vise that didn't have this button and it was a total piece of crap. Not only wouldn't it tighten down (constantly slipped with the smallest amount of pressure), the QR didn't work neither. I posted about that adventure somewhere on this blog a few years back.
I think I understand what this thing does. The button bottom spans the flats on two threads. There is a spring tab that applies pressure to the button to keep it down flush to the hole. As this nut flips back and forth between tighten and QR modes, this button keeps pressure on the threads in the tighten mode. I had taken this 'button' off before and the vise wouldn't tighten down so this is needed and it's not an after thought. As you tighten down the threaded screw pushes against it and with the nut in tighten position it allows you to tighten the jaws. That zipper noise you hear and feel when pulling the jaws out or in is from this button sliding on top of the threaded screw.
The 'button' hiccups is why I think my vise was hit or miss with the QR working. The 'button' wasn't seated properly and wasn't being worked as it should have. This button needs to move freely in this hole in all directions but it also needs to be a good fit too. I finally have both.
The reason the old Record QR vises worked so well was that they didn't use buttons and spring tabs on the QR nut. There was a lever on the front of the vise that moved the nut off the threaded shaft.
I still like this vise a lot. It isn't perfect and it isn't dead nuts perfect in the machining. But it is a solid vise that my grandchildren's kids should still be able to use. I would prefer an old Record but this is an acceptable alternative. Now that I have the QR function working I'm a happy camper.
If I ever get another one, the first thing I will go after unpacking it is to inspect the button on the QR nut.
On another note I checked You Tube for how to sharpen a froe. I had looked in my books and I found a lot on how to use it but the sharpening bits didn't explain the edge profile. You Tube had a lot on the froe and most of them said that the edge being slightly concave was better than a flat vee shape.
What sold me was two of the You Tubers both said that they have always found old froes with a concave edge. The old masters knew what worked and what didn't. I'll be putting a slightly concave edge back on my froe.
They also said, more than once, that a slightly concave edge gave better control with splitting. Not the actual first whack to split the stock, but in the riving part. I don't think that would apply to me so much because I use this to split dowel stock. The biggest piece I've split with my froe has been the 4" dowels I split out the other day.
accidental woodworker
The key to fixing my vise problem was understanding how the QR (quick release nut) worked. The bars and threaded shaft weren't contributors to the problem. I kind of guessed/knew how the QR nut functioned but not that 'button' on the top of the QR nut. I did not know what it's purpose in life was. Well I think I finally figured out how the all the parts interrelate and how this thing is supposed to work.
 |
| Quick release nuts |
Both nuts are partially threaded on the interior. On the nut on the left you can see threads on the left hand side of the inside but there are no threads on the inside of the right side . Roughly half of the inside is threaded. That is the key as to how this works. When the handle is turned to the right - to tighten - the threaded shaft is engaged in the partially threaded portion of the nut. The turning action of the thread also shifts the nut from one side to the other. The mass and weight of the nut plays here too with flipping the nut R/L depending upon whether you are tightening or loosening.
With the threads on the shaft fully engaged in the partial threads of the QR nut the vise jaws tighten. This is the reason why you can't go completely nutso tightening this vise because it will slip.
When you need to use the Quick Release function this action works in the reverse. By turning the screw to the left you shift the QR nut to the opposite side and the nut drops the unthreaded portion on the screw as you turn the handle. The screw has no threads to engage and that allows you move the jaws in/out. With my small vise I can usually get the QR engaged with one turn. My bigger vise on the workbench so far is requiring two turns.
So what is the button for? What is it's role in the QR nut saga? I had another QR vise that didn't have this button and it was a total piece of crap. Not only wouldn't it tighten down (constantly slipped with the smallest amount of pressure), the QR didn't work neither. I posted about that adventure somewhere on this blog a few years back.
 |
| the 'button' |
The 'button' hiccups is why I think my vise was hit or miss with the QR working. The 'button' wasn't seated properly and wasn't being worked as it should have. This button needs to move freely in this hole in all directions but it also needs to be a good fit too. I finally have both.
The reason the old Record QR vises worked so well was that they didn't use buttons and spring tabs on the QR nut. There was a lever on the front of the vise that moved the nut off the threaded shaft.
I still like this vise a lot. It isn't perfect and it isn't dead nuts perfect in the machining. But it is a solid vise that my grandchildren's kids should still be able to use. I would prefer an old Record but this is an acceptable alternative. Now that I have the QR function working I'm a happy camper.
If I ever get another one, the first thing I will go after unpacking it is to inspect the button on the QR nut.
On another note I checked You Tube for how to sharpen a froe. I had looked in my books and I found a lot on how to use it but the sharpening bits didn't explain the edge profile. You Tube had a lot on the froe and most of them said that the edge being slightly concave was better than a flat vee shape.
What sold me was two of the You Tubers both said that they have always found old froes with a concave edge. The old masters knew what worked and what didn't. I'll be putting a slightly concave edge back on my froe.
They also said, more than once, that a slightly concave edge gave better control with splitting. Not the actual first whack to split the stock, but in the riving part. I don't think that would apply to me so much because I use this to split dowel stock. The biggest piece I've split with my froe has been the 4" dowels I split out the other day.
accidental woodworker
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